tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-55876260842907890412024-02-02T14:33:34.240-05:00Barking Rock FarmBarking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-75480501119868791982015-06-25T03:42:00.000-04:002015-06-25T03:43:44.589-04:00New Shepherd Questions<i>Q. I am going to purchase my first sheep this weekend. I have been on numerous
websites, but still have a lot of questions. The sheep were
born in March of this year. What does that make them?</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>I have a 10X10 run in shelter
with good ventilation ( I am also putting in a fan), with barn doors to keep
them in at night. It is on dirt, but I plan to put straw on the floor. </i><br />
<br />
A. <span style="color: #080000; font-family: Arial;">Sheep that are less than 1 year old
are called "lambs." When born in the spring as are yours, they can also be
called "spring lambs." Between one and 2 years of age, they are called
"yearlings."</span><br />
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</div>
<div>
<div>
<span style="color: #080000; font-family: Arial;">A dirt floor, covered in straw, makes
an excellent place for sheep to bed down. The fact that you can close the sheep
up at night will be VERY helpful if there are any predator problems in your
area! It's also a useful option during rainy/snowy conditions, as well as at
lambing time. If your fences are secure and the neighborhood relatively safe,
older lambs and adults can certainly spend the night outdoors during good
weather.</span></div>
</div>
Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-61280393674465802072015-06-11T13:48:00.001-04:002015-06-11T13:53:38.980-04:00Still here!Although it's not been active as of late, the info in this blog is generally timeless. So I've not made any alterations to the posts here.<br />
<br />
We're still active shepherds, and still welcome sheep-related questions!<br />
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<br />Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-56848550408839725202010-11-22T16:54:00.001-05:002010-11-22T16:55:36.025-05:00Battering Ram<div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I have a bottle baby lamb that is about 7 months old. He was castrated 3 months ago but still wants to butt me and my granddaughter. We were the ones who bottle fed him. When I give attention to one of the "siblings" (those bottle fed around the same time as him), he has to push between us. Some days there is no problem; but he seems quick to jerk his head at us. Sometimes he back ups, with ears back and jumps to buck, then swings his head. The other day he got me with a horn and cut me and bruised me.</span></i></div><div></div><div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">If I can push him with my leg on his side, he backs off. Many times ignoring him, he will back off; but if we are head on he will not. My granddaughter he goes after all the time, but as a baby (first 5 weeks he was here by himself, no other lambs and in the house) she was his playmate.</span></i></div><div></div><div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I want to train him, I only have 6 lambs all were bottle babies, and no other sheep. </span></i></div><div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
</span> </i></div><div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">What can I do? Will he calm down since he is castrated?</span></i></div><div></div><div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Thanks for any help</span></i></div><div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
</span> </i></div><div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
</span> </i></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><i></i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I really wish I could offer some great ideas here; but to be perfectly honest, I'm not very optimistic about the outcome of this situation. Once a sheep starts butting behaviour, it only gets worse as he matures; and there's no simple, sure way to curtail it.</span></span></span></div><div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">Castration will help, but it's usually most effective when done at a very early age (a few days) and before the butting behaviour starts. Your only options now are to retrain the lamb against his natural urges. The very first thing I would do is keep him away from your granddaughter. He obviously feels very comfortable challenging her, and that sounds like a recipe for disaster. He apparently views her as an equal in your "flock" (using the term loosely here, as this sheep probably considers humans as part of his flock), and probably won't stop until he "wins." Never, ever, ever allow ANYONE to pet him - or any of your sheep - on the top of the head. Carry a squirt gun, squirt bottle, or something similar any time you're near him. A dose of water right in the face will deter him. Don't coddle him or apologize for disciplinary actions...you're trying to make him slightly afraid of you! Forget about any schemes which might include whacking him with something, as that will only serve to reinforce and encourage future butting.</span></span></span></div><div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">f you are really serious about keeping him at all costs, keep him away from humans as much as possible. The idea is to make him more like a natural sheep - i.e., slightly shy or afraid of humans. It'd be best if he were running with other dam-raised lambs, and had as little future human contact as possible.</span></span></span></div><div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I realize I sound somewhat draconian here, but believe me...my advice stems from many sorry experiences. Although domesticated for millennia, sheep have never really been bred as pets as have been cats and dogs. And although some rudimentary training is possible (such as walking on a lead), sheep are not trainable as are dogs. To make matters more complicated, you're trying to un-train natural urges here. I'm not sure that's at all possible.</span></span></span></div><div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">I do wish you the best of luck.</span></span></span></div></span></i></span></div>Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-86598950204599442242010-11-22T16:45:00.000-05:002010-11-22T16:45:00.744-05:00Lambs Won't Nurse!<i>We sometimes have a problem with young lambs not feeding from the mother. They seem to not know how to suck. The ewe has healthy teats and milk. We have tried rolling the ewe onto its back, holding the ewe and offering the teat to the lamb. This works well if the lamb knows how to suck, but if it doesn't what can we do? Can you advise? Appreciate your site.</i><br />
<i><br />
</i><br />
A chilled lamb usually has no interest in food. If that's the case, the first order of business is to warm the lamb up by whatever means you can (e.g. hair dryer, immersion in warm water, etc.). You can try tube-feeding the lamb warmed colostrum or warm dextrose (NOT cold milk or replacer!); usually that helps *if* chill is the problem. Once the lamb nurses for the first time, it should do ok after that unless something is seriously wrong.<br />
<br />
You can tell if a lamb is cold, by the way, by sticking your finger in its mouth. If it's cold in there, the lamb is chilled. At the same time you'll be checking for vigor of sucking response.<br />
<br />
Your use of the plural here tells me you've seen this more than once. Perhaps it might be a good idea to review your bloodlines, and look for a different and/or more unrelated ram. Loss of early life vigor is one of the first signs of inbreeding depression.Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-54386894463686060242010-07-10T14:28:00.001-04:002010-07-10T14:30:03.262-04:00How Can I Tell When My Ewes Will Lamb?<div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">My 2 ewes are looking very close to lambing. Their udders have swollen nicely. How can I tell how close they are? We bought them pregnant.</span></i><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></i></div><div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Indicators vary from breed to breed and individual ewe to ewe, esp. depending upon age. But generally, once a ewe starts making an udder the event isn't too far off. A day or two before the birth, you should notice some subtle changes in the ewe's body and the udder. The lambs "drop", and the ewe becomes saggier looking around the hips. The tail head appears to move up slightly. The udder will become full, taught, and somewhat "shiney" (assuming it isn't covered with wool!); and you will be able to express a little bit of milk.</span></div><div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">The actual day of lambing, the ewe will probably separate herself from the flock. She'll probably refuse feed, and may stand by herself staring off into space or start "nesting".</span></div><div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">All these signs are somewhat subtle, and seeing them may take some experience and knowledge of your individual sheep.</span></div></span></div>Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-10881660380297939242010-05-07T00:00:00.003-04:002010-05-07T00:15:59.754-04:00Email from Charles - a new potential shepherd - and some answers"I have been doing a lot of research into bio diverse farming methods and "flerding" techniques. I also have a real interest in setting up a sub commercial aggrobiz for myelf and my family with a lot of varied options after im done with military service. <br /><br />"Without going into long winded detail about various business aspirations, I wanted to know if you had any ideas as to a good breed of sheep that gives high quality meat and wool while still producing enough milk and decent quality hide for home useage for recreational crafts that'd be good in the climate of northern Pennsylvania."<div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;">There are dozens upon dozens of breeds available in the USA. I can pretty much guarantee you that every breeder will tell you his or her breed is the best! I urge you to talk to various breeders, and ask them <i>why</i> they have chosen their particular breed. Take every response with a grain of salt, of course. Read everything you can about a breed before investing in it.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;">A few details to keep in mind: </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;"> (1) No breed is perfect in every way </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;"> (2) Most money in sheep is made by selling meat lambs. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;"> (3) There are some niche markets for speciality breeds, wool, hides, and breeding stock; but it takes a special effort to find and develop such markets.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;">Just about any breed you find should do just fine in your climate.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;"><br /></span></div><div>"I am trying to see if i can come up with cost projections to grow my own feed. Also is there a preferred method of preparing pasture and grazing land? "</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;">A great source of such information can be your county extension agent. Yes, there is most certainly methods of preparing pasture! Good pasture and hay does not just happen by itself.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;"></span>"I want to start off with a small herd of maybe 10-15 sheep and slowly include cattle, on an acreage of say 100 acres of pasture. Do you think it would be possible to maintain a few cows as well as sheep and horses? "<br /></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;">Certainly. Starting with a smaller farm animal, such as sheep, is a good start.</span></div>Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-88475613805509394652010-04-11T00:19:00.006-04:002010-11-22T16:47:18.774-05:00Barbados Blackbelly Lambs Available<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivJaH8UxjEkGj2GElfMRsN6CoLBRvdzrrkd2YCd52KF4o5EycHhrZTHszw7EXPNtaThCANZRow5VtB-56cEOXemIhSAK7dkdYluZE6IeRlPiIhdnBoQDEIGL1TiGD5yEgtj8pVKhwHLbk-/s1600/vegas&reno.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458730553868743234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivJaH8UxjEkGj2GElfMRsN6CoLBRvdzrrkd2YCd52KF4o5EycHhrZTHszw7EXPNtaThCANZRow5VtB-56cEOXemIhSAK7dkdYluZE6IeRlPiIhdnBoQDEIGL1TiGD5yEgtj8pVKhwHLbk-/s320/vegas&reno.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 218px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
We now have a few select Blackbelly lambs on the ground. They will be weaning age in early May, and may be reserved now. Check our online saleslist at <a href="http://www.barkingrock.com/sheep4sale.htm">http://www.barkingrock.com/sheep4sale.htm</a><br />
<div><br />
</div><div><a href="http://www.barkingrock.com/sheep4sale.htm"></a>Update 5/6/10 - one ewe lamb left this year!<br />
Update 11/20/10 - we are sold out for the year. If you're interested in a lamb from our winter/spring 2011 crop, please drop us an email at <a href="mailto:farms@barkingrock.com">farms@barkingrock.com </a><br />
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</div><div><a href="http://www.barkingrock.com/sheep4sale.htm"></a><br />
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</div></div></div>Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-67912800350530146692010-04-11T00:12:00.002-04:002010-04-11T00:18:02.311-04:00When is a lamb first shorn?<div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Please tell me when a lamb is born, are they born with some fleece already or are they naked?</span></span></i></div><div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></i></div><div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">After birth, how long can the sheep be shorn for their wool? </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" font-style: normal; "><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">How long it will take for the fleece to be fully grown before another shearing is needed? </span></span></i></span></i></div><div><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span></i></div><div><i><div><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">All lambs are fully covered with wool when born; but the wool is very short - just a few milimeters long. The wool grows quickly, and most lambs *can* be shorn at around 6-8 months of age; although typically lambs are shorn for the first time at around one year of age.</span></span></span></span></div> <div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><span></span> </span></span></span></div> <div><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'times new roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">While most breeds are shorn annually thereafter, a few of the faster-wool-growing breeds (with generally coarser wool) are shorn every 6 months.</span></span></span></span></div></i></div>Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-71951145249153767752010-04-10T23:58:00.005-04:002010-04-11T00:05:07.381-04:00Sheep & Fruit TreesFrom a recent email correspondence...<div><br /></div><div><div><i> I came across your site and I was very thankful to read. I am wondering, do sheep typically eat the bark of fruit trees? </i></div> <div><span style="color:#ff0000;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color:#ff0000;">Yes</span></div><div><span style="color:#ff0000;"><br /></span></div> <div><i> I have a flock of sheep and I would like to put them in the orchard to keep the grass down, but don't want them to damage the trees.</i></div><div><br /></div> <div><span style="color:#ff0000;">Unless the trees are quite large and well-established, with the trunks well protected, the sheep will definitely damage and probably kill the trees.</span></div><div><span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;"><i><br /></i></span><i>Is there something I could feed them in order to deter them from the trees in the case that sheep do eat tree bark?</i></div><div><br /></div> <div><span style="color:#ff0000;">Pasture the sheep in the orchard ONLY when the grass is very lush and thick, and move the sheep at first sign of the grass being depleted and/or the sheep start experimenting on the trees. Don't pasture rams with the trees. Resign yourself to losing the bottommost branches. Wrap the trunks with hardware cloth...NOT chicken wire or page wire. (Neither of those will do much good.)</span></div><div><span style="color:#ff0000;"><br /></span></div> <div><i><span style="color:#ff0000;"></span> </i></div> <div><span style="color:#ff0000;"><i>R</i>epellants (such as "Hinder") MIGHT work temporarily; but I wouldn't bet the farm o<i>n<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"> it.</span></i></span></div><div><span style="color:#ff0000;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;"><br /></span></i></span></div> <div><i><span style="color:#ff0000;"></span> </i></div> <div><span style="color:#ff0000;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal;">Sorry I can't give you better news here; but as I look out at what was once our orchard, I can say all this from experience</span>.</i></span></div></div>Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-34013814329394860292009-10-30T00:01:00.002-04:002009-10-30T00:05:49.554-04:00Will sheep fight?<em>Q. I have 2 acres in northern California in a temperate area. I want to have a flock of about 8-10 jacob sheep, I plan to sell the majority for meat and home consumption. I also do some agri-tourism. People come to see crops, and they’d like to see the sheep (even if the sheep don’t want to be seen).</em><br /><br /><em>I will be new to raising sheep, and am busy with two young kids and an off-farm job. So I thought maybe I’d just buy young males or castrated rams and see if I think it’s too much of a hassle. If I start with 3 males and plan to sell/butcher 2 within a year or so, am I going to have bunch of fighting on my hands? If I have one or two females and two males will that lead to fighting?<br /></em><br />A. It's pretty typical to keep a group of males together during non-breeding season, and it usually works out ok. Wethers (castrated males) will sometimes fight, as of course do intact males; but unless there's something serious to fight about (read: females or starvation), it should work out fine.<br /><br />There's always the potential of acquiring that one SOB ram that just won't adapt, in which case he's a candidate for early retirement to the freezer. But that's not usually the case.<br /><br />A female in heat kept in with (or very near) 2 adult rams will probably drive everyone crazy until she's bred.Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-83491778493709620032009-10-29T23:56:00.005-04:002010-04-11T00:24:04.166-04:00Questions Welcome!Please feel free to post any sheep-related questions you may have here, or under a new heading.Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-57030069949552056602009-10-15T12:04:00.003-04:002009-10-29T23:58:11.268-04:00Novice with Questions<em>Q. I am a novice and recently purchased four sheep: two ewes and two rams for breeding. They look pretty scraggly and had been in a poor pasture. I have lots of pasture and they have been eating nonstop. Their bowel movements have changed from pellets to bigger stools and their rear ends look dirty. I was giving them a it of sheep grain but stopped and now I would like to wash them up a bit. What do you shampoo and groom sheep with and if diaherra develops what do you give them? </em><br /><br />A. I think you're unfortunately finding out the hard way why it pays to buy well-bred and well-managed healthy stock from a reputable breeder! In addition to having a better start, you'd have someone with personal knowledge of the sheep and their own health concerns to turn to with your questions.<br /><br />But here we are, and I'll try to help you as best I can.<br /><br />Any sheep that is no longer producing pellets has a problem, and it can be potentially life-threatening. It sounds like what you have is a problem from too much good food, too quickly. Moving a hungry sheep to a lush pasture can cause a number of problems, among those you've described. Parasite infestation - especially coccidiosis - is another likely cause; again common in young sheep that have not received proper care.<br /><br />Here's what I'd recommend:<br /><br />Clean up the sheep, at least the rump area, with warm water and a mild livestock shampoo. (I like Orvus paste, which can be obtained at your feed mill.) Otherwise you run the risk of fly strike. (Dealing with a sheep infested with maggots is nobody's idea of a good time!)<br /><br />Treat any really severe diarrhea with a product such as Pepto Bismol - approx. same dosage-per-pound as a human.<br /><br />Contact your local vet (large animal vet is best, but any vet office should be able to help), and have them do a fecal check. (In plain English, take a poop sample to them. Ask them to check for parasites, INCLUDING COCCIDIA. Do NOT assume they will check for this, which is NOT a worm and will NOT be treated with any dewormer.) If the sample tests positive, ask for a recommended medication to treat the problem.<br /><br />If possible, put the animals on dry hay for a few days. Introduce them to the rich pasture for only a couple hours per day, extending their grazing time a little each day.<br />Make absolutely certain the sheep have access to clean drinking water at all times!<br /><br />After the sheep are acclimated to your pasture, you can introduce grain into their diet, if desired and necessary, starting slowly and gradually increasing the quantity.Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-79771731748105489862009-08-30T17:28:00.003-04:002009-08-30T17:30:31.151-04:002010 Lamb CropThank you to all of our 2009 buyers!<br /><br />We're now taking orders for our 2010 lamb crop. Please drop us a line at <a href="mailto:farms@barkingrock.com">farms@barkingrock.com</a> if you'd like to be added to our mailing list. <br /><br />We'll simply drop you a line once the ewes drop their lambs! There is no obligation.Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-65478424531051928632009-08-30T17:18:00.001-04:002009-08-30T17:22:51.672-04:00Shearing Sheep<em>From: Susan<br />To: </em><a title="farms@barkingrock.com" href="mailto:"><em>'farms@barkingrock.com'</em></a><em><br />Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009<br /><br />... I would like to get a better understanding about shearing. Do they need to be sheared at least once a year? Does the heat in summer make them suffer with a full fleece still on since the year before? Can they get infestation or diseases from not being shorn? I have seen some that look very uncomfortable and ugly besides when they still have a full fleece in the middle of summer. Thank you for any information you can provide...</em><br /><br /><br /><br />Hi Susan,<br /><br />Most wool breeds should be shorn once per year. Some of the coarse wool breeds will need to be shorn twice per year. And hair breeds - such as our Barbados Blackbellies - need no shearing at all!<br /><br />Wool is an insulator. Contrary to popular conceptions, it really isn't mandatory that sheep be shorn in spring; they can be shorn any time, including late summer. Wooly sheep - although they appear to us to be too warm - will generally do just fine in the summer.<br /><br />A sheep doesn't get a disease or infestation simply from not being shorn; but too much wool will certainly hide the symptoms of any such problem. Unshorn sheep do become matted, messy, dirty, and unattractive. And unshorn ewes will certainly become incredibly soiled when they lamb. Their lambs also may starve for inability to make their way through the matts to the teats!<br /><br />So back to what I think was your original query...what becomes of a wool breed that isn't shorn? Well, a sheep doesn't die directly for lack of shearing. But unshorn, wet wool tends to become messy and matted. Messy and matted, partially shed wool is a great place to harbor maggots, lice, and other highly icky things. It's possible that the wool will grow to the point where the animal steps on it and stumbles over it.<br /><br />Basically, if you are raising sheep for sale and don't shear, no one is going to buy from you because you obviously can't manage your flock.<br />If you are raising sheep as decorative pets, you're not going to like the appearance or attendant problems.<br /><br />If you're contemplating owning sheep and don't want to deal with shearing, a hair breed is a very good option.Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-45818815119493927952009-05-22T17:04:00.002-04:002009-05-22T17:05:23.274-04:00Jacob Fleeces for HandspinningWe still have a few gorgeous naturally-spotted Jacob fleeces available. Please check out the supply at our website at http://www.barkingrock.com/wool.htmBarking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5587626084290789041.post-19862044217581186272009-05-11T19:47:00.002-04:002009-10-29T23:58:56.028-04:00Questions & Answers About ShepherdingWe welcome all sheep-related questions here, and will do our best to answer any serious inquiries!Barking Rockhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17343766514473915589noreply@blogger.com17