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Q. I have 2 acres in northern California in a temperate area. I want to have a flock of about 8-10 jacob sheep, I plan to sell the majority for meat and home consumption. I also do some agri-tourism. People come to see crops, and they’d like to see the sheep (even if the sheep don’t want to be seen).
I will be new to raising sheep, and am busy with two young kids and an off-farm job. So I thought maybe I’d just buy young males or castrated rams and see if I think it’s too much of a hassle. If I start with 3 males and plan to sell/butcher 2 within a year or so, am I going to have bunch of fighting on my hands? If I have one or two females and two males will that lead to fighting?
A. It's pretty typical to keep a group of males together during non-breeding season, and it usually works out ok. Wethers (castrated males) will sometimes fight, as of course do intact males; but unless there's something serious to fight about (read: females or starvation), it should work out fine.
There's always the potential of acquiring that one SOB ram that just won't adapt, in which case he's a candidate for early retirement to the freezer. But that's not usually the case.
A female in heat kept in with (or very near) 2 adult rams will probably drive everyone crazy until she's bred.
October 30, 2009
October 29, 2009
Support our supporters!
Please help support that which helps support our sheep farm - and the advice offered here!
For yard goods, craft supplies, patterns, and more: http://twabiddies.ecrater.com/
For gifts of fine jewelry and genuine gemstones: http://barkrock.ecrater.com/
We thank you!!
For yard goods, craft supplies, patterns, and more: http://twabiddies.ecrater.com/
For gifts of fine jewelry and genuine gemstones: http://barkrock.ecrater.com/
We thank you!!
October 15, 2009
Novice with Questions
Q. I am a novice and recently purchased four sheep: two ewes and two rams for breeding. They look pretty scraggly and had been in a poor pasture. I have lots of pasture and they have been eating nonstop. Their bowel movements have changed from pellets to bigger stools and their rear ends look dirty. I was giving them a it of sheep grain but stopped and now I would like to wash them up a bit. What do you shampoo and groom sheep with and if diaherra develops what do you give them?
A. I think you're unfortunately finding out the hard way why it pays to buy well-bred and well-managed healthy stock from a reputable breeder! In addition to having a better start, you'd have someone with personal knowledge of the sheep and their own health concerns to turn to with your questions.
But here we are, and I'll try to help you as best I can.
Any sheep that is no longer producing pellets has a problem, and it can be potentially life-threatening. It sounds like what you have is a problem from too much good food, too quickly. Moving a hungry sheep to a lush pasture can cause a number of problems, among those you've described. Parasite infestation - especially coccidiosis - is another likely cause; again common in young sheep that have not received proper care.
Here's what I'd recommend:
Clean up the sheep, at least the rump area, with warm water and a mild livestock shampoo. (I like Orvus paste, which can be obtained at your feed mill.) Otherwise you run the risk of fly strike. (Dealing with a sheep infested with maggots is nobody's idea of a good time!)
Treat any really severe diarrhea with a product such as Pepto Bismol - approx. same dosage-per-pound as a human.
Contact your local vet (large animal vet is best, but any vet office should be able to help), and have them do a fecal check. (In plain English, take a poop sample to them. Ask them to check for parasites, INCLUDING COCCIDIA. Do NOT assume they will check for this, which is NOT a worm and will NOT be treated with any dewormer.) If the sample tests positive, ask for a recommended medication to treat the problem.
If possible, put the animals on dry hay for a few days. Introduce them to the rich pasture for only a couple hours per day, extending their grazing time a little each day.
Make absolutely certain the sheep have access to clean drinking water at all times!
After the sheep are acclimated to your pasture, you can introduce grain into their diet, if desired and necessary, starting slowly and gradually increasing the quantity.
A. I think you're unfortunately finding out the hard way why it pays to buy well-bred and well-managed healthy stock from a reputable breeder! In addition to having a better start, you'd have someone with personal knowledge of the sheep and their own health concerns to turn to with your questions.
But here we are, and I'll try to help you as best I can.
Any sheep that is no longer producing pellets has a problem, and it can be potentially life-threatening. It sounds like what you have is a problem from too much good food, too quickly. Moving a hungry sheep to a lush pasture can cause a number of problems, among those you've described. Parasite infestation - especially coccidiosis - is another likely cause; again common in young sheep that have not received proper care.
Here's what I'd recommend:
Clean up the sheep, at least the rump area, with warm water and a mild livestock shampoo. (I like Orvus paste, which can be obtained at your feed mill.) Otherwise you run the risk of fly strike. (Dealing with a sheep infested with maggots is nobody's idea of a good time!)
Treat any really severe diarrhea with a product such as Pepto Bismol - approx. same dosage-per-pound as a human.
Contact your local vet (large animal vet is best, but any vet office should be able to help), and have them do a fecal check. (In plain English, take a poop sample to them. Ask them to check for parasites, INCLUDING COCCIDIA. Do NOT assume they will check for this, which is NOT a worm and will NOT be treated with any dewormer.) If the sample tests positive, ask for a recommended medication to treat the problem.
If possible, put the animals on dry hay for a few days. Introduce them to the rich pasture for only a couple hours per day, extending their grazing time a little each day.
Make absolutely certain the sheep have access to clean drinking water at all times!
After the sheep are acclimated to your pasture, you can introduce grain into their diet, if desired and necessary, starting slowly and gradually increasing the quantity.
August 30, 2009
2010 Lamb Crop
Thank you to all of our 2009 buyers!
We're now taking orders for our 2010 lamb crop. Please drop us a line at farms@barkingrock.com if you'd like to be added to our mailing list.
We'll simply drop you a line once the ewes drop their lambs! There is no obligation.
We're now taking orders for our 2010 lamb crop. Please drop us a line at farms@barkingrock.com if you'd like to be added to our mailing list.
We'll simply drop you a line once the ewes drop their lambs! There is no obligation.
Shearing Sheep
From: Susan
To: 'farms@barkingrock.com'
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009
... I would like to get a better understanding about shearing. Do they need to be sheared at least once a year? Does the heat in summer make them suffer with a full fleece still on since the year before? Can they get infestation or diseases from not being shorn? I have seen some that look very uncomfortable and ugly besides when they still have a full fleece in the middle of summer. Thank you for any information you can provide...
Hi Susan,
Most wool breeds should be shorn once per year. Some of the coarse wool breeds will need to be shorn twice per year. And hair breeds - such as our Barbados Blackbellies - need no shearing at all!
Wool is an insulator. Contrary to popular conceptions, it really isn't mandatory that sheep be shorn in spring; they can be shorn any time, including late summer. Wooly sheep - although they appear to us to be too warm - will generally do just fine in the summer.
A sheep doesn't get a disease or infestation simply from not being shorn; but too much wool will certainly hide the symptoms of any such problem. Unshorn sheep do become matted, messy, dirty, and unattractive. And unshorn ewes will certainly become incredibly soiled when they lamb. Their lambs also may starve for inability to make their way through the matts to the teats!
So back to what I think was your original query...what becomes of a wool breed that isn't shorn? Well, a sheep doesn't die directly for lack of shearing. But unshorn, wet wool tends to become messy and matted. Messy and matted, partially shed wool is a great place to harbor maggots, lice, and other highly icky things. It's possible that the wool will grow to the point where the animal steps on it and stumbles over it.
Basically, if you are raising sheep for sale and don't shear, no one is going to buy from you because you obviously can't manage your flock.
If you are raising sheep as decorative pets, you're not going to like the appearance or attendant problems.
If you're contemplating owning sheep and don't want to deal with shearing, a hair breed is a very good option.
To: 'farms@barkingrock.com'
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009
... I would like to get a better understanding about shearing. Do they need to be sheared at least once a year? Does the heat in summer make them suffer with a full fleece still on since the year before? Can they get infestation or diseases from not being shorn? I have seen some that look very uncomfortable and ugly besides when they still have a full fleece in the middle of summer. Thank you for any information you can provide...
Hi Susan,
Most wool breeds should be shorn once per year. Some of the coarse wool breeds will need to be shorn twice per year. And hair breeds - such as our Barbados Blackbellies - need no shearing at all!
Wool is an insulator. Contrary to popular conceptions, it really isn't mandatory that sheep be shorn in spring; they can be shorn any time, including late summer. Wooly sheep - although they appear to us to be too warm - will generally do just fine in the summer.
A sheep doesn't get a disease or infestation simply from not being shorn; but too much wool will certainly hide the symptoms of any such problem. Unshorn sheep do become matted, messy, dirty, and unattractive. And unshorn ewes will certainly become incredibly soiled when they lamb. Their lambs also may starve for inability to make their way through the matts to the teats!
So back to what I think was your original query...what becomes of a wool breed that isn't shorn? Well, a sheep doesn't die directly for lack of shearing. But unshorn, wet wool tends to become messy and matted. Messy and matted, partially shed wool is a great place to harbor maggots, lice, and other highly icky things. It's possible that the wool will grow to the point where the animal steps on it and stumbles over it.
Basically, if you are raising sheep for sale and don't shear, no one is going to buy from you because you obviously can't manage your flock.
If you are raising sheep as decorative pets, you're not going to like the appearance or attendant problems.
If you're contemplating owning sheep and don't want to deal with shearing, a hair breed is a very good option.
May 22, 2009
Jacob Fleeces for Handspinning
We still have a few gorgeous naturally-spotted Jacob fleeces available. Please check out the supply at our website at http://www.barkingrock.com/wool.htm
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